Jason Wu's latest endeavor, 'Fashioning Chinese Women: Empire to Modernity' at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), is a captivating exploration of Chinese women's fashion and heritage. This project is a testament to Wu's passion for doll design and his desire to delve into his cultural roots. What makes this exhibition truly remarkable is how it seamlessly blends art, fashion, and technology, offering a unique perspective on the evolution of Chinese women's dress.
Wu's personal journey with doll design began when he was just 17, and it has been a constant in his career. This early experience has given him a unique understanding of sculpting figures and working in 3D, which is evident in the exhibition's 3D-printed mannequins. By customizing the faces, hairstyles, and finishes of these mannequins, Wu has created a visually stunning display of historic looks, showcasing the evolution of Chinese women's fashion across decades of social transformation.
One of the most fascinating aspects of this project is how it bridges the worlds of art, fashion, and collectible design. Wu's inspiration from Art Deco has resulted in figures that feel less like mannequins and more like sculptures, with a sophisticated, uniform look that connects garments spanning decades. From the embroidered robes of the late Qing Dynasty to the sleek silhouettes of the qipao and cheongsam, the exhibition explores how changing styles reflected ideas of femininity and identity.
The garments themselves are a testament to the adaptation of imported materials and techniques through Chinese craftsmanship. Made in cities spanning Shanghai and Hong Kong to San Francisco and New York, the garments reveal how jacquard ribbons, synthetic dyes, rayon, and machine-made lace were incorporated into Chinese fashion. Accuracy in the mannequins' proportions was essential, as Wu notes how dramatically body sizes shifted across eras, with the exhibition using the proportions of today's teenage girls for the 1900s looks.
The exhibition also highlights Wu's new venture, Atomic Lab, a platform for limited-edition collectible dolls inspired by fashion and pop culture. The LACMA x Atomic Lab Museum Edition, created alongside the exhibition, is a 12-inch collectible doll limited to 250 pieces worldwide, priced at $250 and shipping in November. Inspired by the glamour of 1950s Shanghai, it is dressed in an emerald-green qipao and finished with genuine jade jewelry. This doll serves as the inaugural release in The Vault Series, offering a unique way to own a piece of Wu's artistic vision.
In my opinion, this exhibition is a testament to Wu's maturity and willingness to tackle his cultural background. It is a deeply personal project that explores the evolution of Chinese women's fashion and heritage, offering a unique perspective on the intersection of art, fashion, and technology. What makes this project particularly fascinating is how it challenges traditional notions of femininity and identity, inviting viewers to reflect on the broader implications of fashion and heritage in the modern world.
